02 January, 2018

The Outwards Scoop


We all know that it's important to scoop all tissue from the outside of the bra *into* the cups, as well as positioning the wires correctly, but recently I have been thinking about an extension of the manoeuvre:

The Outwards Scoop


You may be thinking that this is just a way to make a too small cup look like it fits correctly, but I promise you it's more than that. What is the purpose of the scoop and swoop? To make sure that all tissue that was outside the wires is now inside the wires - of course, provided that the bra isn't too narrow overall.



For those with soft tissue (and particuarly those with pendulous breasts and loose skin as well), or just a very projected shape simply scooping the traditional way can force tissue into the gore space *past* the root of your breast. This causes tissue to sit under the gore, either pushing it away or having the gore sit on breast tissue - not ideal!

27 November, 2017

Bra Shopping in Melbourne - The Good, The Bad and The Ugly


A quick lowdown of three places to buy bras in Melbourne - if you're one of the two thirds of people who don't fit in the sizes most bra shops sell, or you just want somewhere to give you a good fitting, this is the post to read. Apologies for the lack of photos of the fittings, my phone was broken.

 

The Good - Brava

 

Brava exterior
Brava's exterior

03 September, 2017

Comfortably Stylish - A Short Review of Urkye Koalicja Serca+Granat in 34OO/OOO


I have real difficulty finding clothes that fit me due to my bust/waist sizes, so I often look at bust friendly brands as a potential solution. Unfortunately, my personal style is brightly coloured/patterned, interesting clothes and most of these brands deal in basiscs so I always leave the websites empty handed and disappointed. My perspective is: I can buy a T shirt from H&M for £3.99, I'm not concerned much about the fit. What I can't do is buy a nice dress or an interestingly designed shirt that actually sits well on me.

Urkye doesn't seem to me to be much different from other full bust brands, both in size range (it only goes up to a 44 waist size, which I believe corresponds to a UK 16, so no plus size range here) and in design. However, one dress stood out to me, and I decided to give it a try.


Success! A dress that fits me well and I enjoy wearing! The dress didn't take too long to arrive (in the UK), either, considering it came from Poland. For reference, I usually wear a 6/8 in waist sizes but have to size up multiple times to get a good fit in the bust (I usually don't though because I end up with badly fitting shoulders).

18 July, 2017

Why I love FUNderwear (and how to get hold of it in extended sizes)


Lots of people use lingerie as a way of expressing their sexuality. And that's great - power to them. This post is not negatively framing those people's choices in any way, but about my alternative perspective.

Three pairs of underpants, two with Disney designs on them, one with a dinosaur print, laid out on a bed.
Apologies for the poor photo, my phone is broken so I had to make do with an old camera.

Ever since I went through puberty I have been told that my body, and other womens' bodies, are
inherently sexual, just because they exist in the "female" subcategory. A man can make jokes about nudity, his genitals, even masturbation and they are generally well received because the context of these remarks is humorous. If a woman tries the same thing, the reception is never quite the same because people will always colour her comments with sexuality. Of course, the level of this will depend on the woman's race, age, gender expression, size, whether they're disabled or not, trans status, and multiple other things. But it never goes away entirely.

28 June, 2017

Dishearteningly Dear - All Undone Lottie Review in 28GG


Ever since I found out about All Undone I have fallen in love with their aesthetic. The sleek lines, bright colours and high quality materials have put them at the top of my wishlist for years. One thing held me back though - whenever the bras were reduced in price to within my budget, they were made nonreturnable. I did some research and found out that this is against the law in the UK (where the company is based), so I contacted them about it and they updated their policy. Great!

James Van Der Beek's sad face pasted over a picture of me in the Lottie

Unfortunately the Lottie is a major disappointment. I got it for £31.60 plus shipping from their sale, its usual price is a whopping £79!

20 June, 2017

Bra Science: How Band Size Changes with Cup Size - Freya


Welcome to part two of my series on how band lengths are not always equal between cup sizes. Last time we had Cleo by Panache, now we're testing Freya's band lengths.

I collected Bratabase data on the stretched and unstretched band lengths in a couple of band sizes of Freya bras - the ones with the most data. The results are as follows:


07 June, 2017

I will be the coolest kid! — Comexim Graffiti Review in 55M


Comexim's designs don't often inspire me. However, as a connoisseur of all things fun - underwear or otherwise - I just had to buy this bra as soon as I saw it. A graffiti print longline? SIGN ME UP!

Image of me wearing the Graffiti, taken at a 45 degree angle

I ordered the bra in a 55M with the "deeper cups" and "reduced cup height" alterations (though I have no way of telling if they were done or not). I paid 149 zloty for it, a little over £30, plus shipping.

Design:

 

Image of me wearing the Graffiti from the front
Sorry for the low quality image! My phone just wasn't cooperating with me today!
Be still, my beating heart. I adore this print and the vibrant colours.

Close up shot of the cup of the Graffiti, showing the bright and detailed print

Close up on the clock shaped charm on the Graffiti's gore

Although the gore floats - LOOK AT THAT CLOCK CHARM! I love it! Plain bows are so overdone, give me a charm any day!

The Graffiti laid out on a bed, the front of the bra is visible.

While I really like the block of graffiti print below the cups, unfortunately, the rest of the band and the inside of the bra is just boring black, which does make me a bit sad. However, would adding more colour just bring it over the top? 

Close up shot of the Graffiti's straps

The straps are just embellished black elastic, which again is just a bit boring. They do their job well enough and are a good width for me - not too narrow as to dig in, but not hugely wide and stiff like some other brands.

Construction:


The bra is a three part, longline... plunge? balconette? with fully adjustable straps and 5 rows and 3 columns of hooks. I'm questioning the plunge/balconette part as its gore is lower than most balconettes I've tried but higher than a plunge. I would say it's about the height of a half cup's gore.

I would prefer 6 hooks but I'm happy to take 5 - some longlines I've tried (cough cough, Freya Pandora) have had a measly 4. 4 is basically 3 and 3 is a normal bra!

I also appreciate the leotard back. They always feel that bit more secure for me, and they're often hard to come by on longlines.

The bra feels like it's constructed sturdily. I feel like its lack of depth by the gore (more on that later) is putting a bit of strain on the fabric near the gore, but I'm confident it will last for a long time - it's certainly been difficult to even slightly stretch out the bottom part of the band - something I've struggled with as you'll see later on!

The straps are also quite well-designed as their texture means the adjusters really stay where they are, but aren't difficult to adjust manually.

Fit:


Shot of me wearing the Graffiti from the back.

Unfortunately, while I love how this bra looks, the fit isn't stellar. The main issue is its v-shaped band. While my waist is about the same size as my underbust, the Graffiti is designed for a much smaller waist than underbust. While the band fits great at the top, it is a bit of a struggle to wear this bra all day. Often I have to undo the bottom two hooks after a couple of hours. Because the band is so tight it often scooches up a bit in the middle at the front over the course of the day, though it doesn't bother me too much.

Shot of me wearing the Graffiti from the top, so the gore float is visible

The cups don't fit incredibly either - they can't handle my centre fullness, so the gore floats and I have some centre spillage on my larger boob.

Side on shot of me indicating how low the wires sit on the Graffiti, I can fit two fingers between the wire and my IMF

The wires are also too wide and definitely don't have enough depth at the bottom, so the wires are both too wide and ride down a lot. By the end of the day the wires feel a bit pokey at the bottom, but I think this is more becase of the too snug band than the lack of depth at the wire.

Shot of me wearing the Graffiti, also at a 45 degree angle

The cups are tall despite me ordering reduced cup height - maybe they didn't do it? I'm not sure. My tall roots are accommodated well, but I would definitely not recommend this bra to someone with short roots even with the alteration.

Side view of me wearing the Graffiti, showing a fairly rounded profile

The bra gives me a fairly rounded, quite minimised side profile. I definitely prefer my boobs to be projected outwards as I find it more comfortable over time, but I don't dislike the shape this bra gives me.

I would say this bra would fit someone with average horizontal fullness, tall roots, someone who does not require a huge amount of depth at the wire, and above average overall projection.

Bratabase Measurements:

 
As this bra is a longline, the gore height's measurement isnt truly accurate. From the bottom of the cups, the gore is 8.7cm tall. 

Overall:

I think this bra is great fun, and I could even see someone wearing it with a jacket as a crop top/lingerie as outerwear thing. It's great, and I feel awesome whenever I wear it (that is, until the band starts digging in!).

Have you ever tried a Comexim longline? What did you think?